Sea buckthorn grows wild across Estonia. On Saaremaa island, the thorny yellow-orange berry bushes are part of the coastal landscape, a plant that thrives in cold, harsh conditions and produces something genuinely remarkable. The oil extracted from sea buckthorn berries and seeds has a longer track record than most modern “superfood” skincare ingredients, and the research behind it is more substantial than average.
What sea buckthorn actually contains
Sea buckthorn oil is extracted from two parts of the berry: the pulp (fruit flesh) and the seed. They have different compositions, and some products blend both.
Pulp oil is where the distinctive bright orange colour comes from. It’s extraordinarily rich in beta-carotene, the same compound responsible for the colour of carrots, which is a potent antioxidant and a precursor to vitamin A. Pulp oil also contains palmitoleic acid (omega-7), which is rare in plant oils and is one of the components found naturally in human skin sebum. This makes it unusually compatible with skin function. The vitamin E content is also high, particularly tocotrienols, a form with stronger antioxidant activity than standard tocopherol.
Seed oil has a different fatty acid profile, rich in linoleic acid (omega-6) and alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3). These essential fatty acids support the skin barrier and reduce inflammation. The seed oil is lighter and less intensely coloured than pulp oil.
Combined, sea buckthorn oil provides carotenoids, essential fatty acids, vitamin E, vitamin K, sterols, and flavonoids in a single ingredient. This isn’t typical for plant oils.
What the research shows for skin
The anti-inflammatory properties are among the most studied. A 2009 study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology noted sea buckthorn’s traditional use in wound healing and found evidence for its anti-inflammatory action. The carotenoids and flavonoids appear to reduce the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, which is relevant for conditions like rosacea, eczema, and sun-damaged skin.
For barrier repair, the omega-7 content is particularly relevant. Palmitoleic acid is a structural fatty acid found in skin, and supplementing it topically may support barrier function in dry or compromised skin. A small Finnish clinical study found that sea buckthorn seed oil consumption improved moisture content and elasticity in dry skin, which also points to its usefulness as a topical ingredient.
The vitamin C content, primarily in the juice rather than the oil, is among the highest of any berry. While the extracted oil contains less vitamin C than the fresh berry, the presence of multiple antioxidants makes it unusually protective against oxidative stress.
The orange problem
Using straight sea buckthorn pulp oil on your face will temporarily turn your skin orange. This is real. The beta-carotene concentration is high enough to stain. This is why well-formulated products use sea buckthorn at carefully judged concentrations, blended with other oils, or in a form where the colour impact is controlled.
The orange staining is temporary and washes off, but it’s worth knowing if you’re using a product with high sea buckthorn concentration. Apply in the evening if you’re concerned. The seed oil, which is lighter in colour, is the better choice for daytime use or for those with fairer skin who want to avoid the tint.
HOIA’s Superserum SUNDROPS uses sea buckthorn as a key ingredient, formulated to deliver the genuine benefits of the oil without the full orange pigment issue. It’s a concentrated serum for dry, dull, or sun-stressed skin.
Who benefits most from sea buckthorn
Dry and very dry skin benefits most clearly. The combination of essential fatty acids, barrier-supporting lipids, and anti-inflammatory compounds addresses multiple dimensions of what dry skin struggles with. If you’re in a cold climate where skin is constantly exposed to wind and low temperatures, sea buckthorn is one of the better plant oils available.
Mature skin is another strong match. The antioxidant density offers protection against the free radical damage that contributes to skin ageing, and the carotenoids may support collagen synthesis through their vitamin A activity. This doesn’t make it a magic anti-ageing ingredient, but it’s a well-supported choice for anyone prioritising skin health over time.
Sensitive and reactive skin can also benefit from the anti-inflammatory properties, particularly the seed oil form. Pulp oil at high concentrations may be too heavy for some skin types, but small amounts of seed oil blend well into most formulas without causing congestion.
How to use it
If you’re buying pure sea buckthorn oil, dilute the pulp oil before applying it directly to your face. A ratio of around 10-20% sea buckthorn mixed with a lighter carrier oil like jojoba or rosehip is a practical starting point. Apply in the evening and expect some warmth of colour on the skin.
Formulated products handle the dilution and blending for you. Look for sea buckthorn oil or Hippophae rhamnoides (the INCI name) in the first half of the ingredient list for meaningful concentration.
For skin that’s dry, cold-stressed, or showing early signs of ageing, this is one of the more worthwhile plant oils to investigate. The Estonian coastline didn’t grow it for nothing.