Walk into any pharmacy and you’ll see shelves of “for men” skincare: darker packaging, more aggressive branding, usually a higher price. Some of the differences between men’s and women’s skincare products are legitimate, reflecting actual physiological differences in male skin. A lot of it is marketing. Knowing which is which means you can build a routine based on what your skin actually needs rather than on what a packaging designer decided men should want.
What is actually different about male skin
Male skin is typically about 25% thicker than female skin, due to higher androgen levels, specifically testosterone, which stimulates more robust collagen production in the dermis. This means male skin tends to age more slowly initially but can change more dramatically once the process starts.
Sebaceous glands in male skin are more active, producing more sebum on average. This makes oily skin and acne more common in men, particularly through the twenties and beyond. The larger pores associated with higher sebum production are a real characteristic, not a myth.
Daily shaving creates a significant and specific challenge for male facial skin. Shaving removes the surface layer of the stratum corneum mechanically, which is a form of exfoliation. This leaves skin temporarily more sensitive, more prone to moisture loss, and more susceptible to ingrown hairs and follicular irritation. Shaving-related concerns, including razor burn, post-shave dryness, and ingrown hairs, are genuine skincare issues that female-targeted products typically don’t address.
Male skin also tends to be slightly more acidic than female skin on average, and responds somewhat differently to certain ingredients, but these differences are minor compared to individual variation between people of any gender.
What is just marketing
The “for men” labelling on most basic skincare products is largely packaging. A moisturiser with ceramides and niacinamide works on male skin for the same reasons it works on any skin. A vitamin C serum is effective regardless of who uses it. Many men’s products are reformulated versions of standard products in darker bottles with fragrance adjusted toward traditionally “masculine” scents.
The price differential is often unjustified. In many cases, the “women’s” version of the same product from the same brand is cheaper. This is sometimes called the pink tax in reverse for men’s grooming, where premium positioning creates a perception of products designed specifically for men that doesn’t reflect meaningful formulation differences.
If a product has good ingredients for your skin type and concerns, the gender on the packaging is irrelevant. Men with dry skin can use products marketed to women with dry skin. The formulations are functionally identical or the “women’s” version may actually be better formulated for the skin type.
Building a practical routine
The baseline is the same as for anyone: cleanse, protect (moisturise plus SPF in the morning), and treat specific concerns. For men, the shaving element requires specific attention.
Pre-shave: washing your face with warm water and a gentle cleanser before shaving softens the hair and prepares the skin. Shaving on clean, damp skin reduces friction and improves blade contact.
Post-shave: this is where most men’s routines fall short. After shaving, skin needs immediate barrier support. Alcohol-based aftershaves create a burning sensation and a perception of “working” but actually strip the skin and cause post-shave dryness and irritation. A post-shave product should soothe, hydrate, and support the skin barrier rather than sterilise the surface with alcohol.
HOIA’s Aftershave Facial Cream is formulated as a proper post-shave treatment: calming, moisturising, and supportive of the skin’s recovery from the mechanical stress of shaving rather than adding to that stress. It works as both aftershave and daily moisturiser for the face.
Sunscreen: the most neglected step
Men are statistically less likely to use SPF regularly than women, and the skin cancer rates reflect this. Men develop more melanomas on the face and neck, areas regularly exposed to sun but less often protected. Daily SPF 30 or higher on the face takes thirty seconds and makes a measurable long-term difference.
For men who find conventional sunscreens feel heavy or leave a white cast, lightweight mineral SPF formulas or SPF-containing moisturisers reduce the barrier to actually using them consistently. The best SPF is the one you’ll put on every day.
Specific concerns by age
In the twenties: sebum production is typically highest, acne and congestion are the main concerns. A gentle foaming or gel cleanser twice daily, a lightweight moisturiser, and SPF in the morning covers most of what’s needed.
In the thirties: texture, early line development, and post-shave recovery become more relevant. Adding a simple serum with vitamin C or niacinamide to the morning routine and a moisturiser with some anti-ageing actives at night is a reasonable step up.
In the forties and beyond: the pace of change in male skin picks up after years of higher collagen production slow down. A more active night routine becomes worthwhile: peptides, retinol at a low concentration, and a richer moisturiser than in younger years. More on this in a separate post on men’s skin ageing after 35.
The point is that a skincare routine for men doesn’t need to be complicated or require buying products from a “men’s” sub-brand. It needs to address what male skin actually deals with, particularly around shaving, oil production, and long-neglected SPF habits.