In Estonia, the sauna is not a wellness trend. It is part of the cultural fabric in a way that is difficult to fully communicate to someone who grew up without it. Estonian saunas (called “saun”) have been used for centuries, and the traditional smoke sauna (suitsusaun) is a UNESCO-listed element of Estonian cultural heritage. Beyond the cultural significance, there is something genuinely interesting happening for skin during a proper sauna session.
What actually happens to your skin in a sauna
The heat in a sauna, typically between 70°C and 100°C with varying humidity, triggers a cascade of physiological responses. Within the first few minutes, blood vessels near the skin surface dilate significantly. Skin blood flow can increase to several times its resting level. This is why you flush red.
Sweating begins, and with it comes a thorough flushing of the pores. The combination of heat, steam, and sweating loosens sebum and surface debris. After a good sauna session followed by proper cleansing, the skin often feels genuinely cleaner at a deeper level than washing alone achieves.
Core body temperature rises, which triggers the immune system mildly. The subsequent cooling, particularly the cold rinse or cold water plunge that traditionally follows a sauna, contracts blood vessels rapidly. This repeated dilation and contraction acts as a workout for the vascular system, sometimes described as “vascular gymnastics.”
The birch whisk: not just tradition
The vihk (birch whisk or bundle of fresh birch branches) is central to the Estonian and Finnish sauna tradition. It is soaked in warm water before use and then used to gently beat and sweep the skin during the sauna session. This has several effects.
The physical action of the branches on the skin increases local circulation and has a mild exfoliating effect, sloughing off softened dead skin cells. Fresh birch leaves contain salicylates (natural forms related to salicylic acid), tannins, flavonoids, and vitamin C. These compounds are transferred to the skin surface during use.
The steam from the wet birch bundle also carries aromatic compounds including betulinol from the bark, which has mild anti-inflammatory properties. Whether the concentrations involved are therapeutic is debatable, but the experience is pleasant and the mild chemical contribution is real.
Oak and juniper whisks are also traditional, each with slightly different properties. Juniper is considered more invigorating, while birch is the most widely used and the mildest.
Skin benefits that are reasonably well supported
Regular sauna use has been associated with improved skin barrier function in research. A study in Finnish populations (where sauna tradition is closely related to the Estonian) found that regular sauna users had better skin hydration and elasticity compared to non-users. The mechanism appears related to improved circulation and the repeated challenge-and-repair cycle that regular heat exposure creates.
Deep sweating flushes the pores of accumulated sebum and environmental pollutants. This is particularly relevant for people living in urban environments with significant air pollution exposure. For congested or oily skin, regular sauna use can visibly reduce the tendency toward blackheads and clogged pores.
The stress reduction aspect is not trivial from a skin perspective. Cortisol elevation is associated with increased sebum production, slower wound healing, and exacerbation of inflammatory skin conditions including psoriasis and eczema. Sauna use consistently reduces cortisol and subjective stress, which has downstream effects on skin.
What to do before and after for your skin
Entering the sauna with clean skin is important. Product residues, particularly anything with fragrance or active ingredients, can behave unpredictably when heated. Cleanse before your sauna session.
During the sauna, stay hydrated. The sauna dehydrates you at a meaningful rate, and dehydrated skin does not benefit from a session the way adequately hydrated skin does.
After the sauna, your skin is warm, flushed, and open. This is an excellent time to apply a light hydrating mist or a gentle moisturiser, while the skin is still slightly warm. The increased blood flow means active ingredients are absorbed more readily than usual. Keep it simple; this is not the moment for strong actives or acids.
The traditional post-sauna cold water plunge or cold shower is not just masochism. The rapid cooling contracts pores, reduces redness, and seals in the hydration you have just added. It is also remarkably good for mood and alertness.
Who should be careful
Sauna use is not suitable for everyone. Rosacea-prone skin can be significantly aggravated by intense heat, as the already-dilated blood vessels do not need further challenge. If you have rosacea, sauna sessions need to be shorter, cooler, and followed by very gentle cool-down, not cold shock.
Active inflammatory skin conditions including an eczema flare, active psoriasis, or infected skin should not go in a sauna. The heat increases inflammation and the shared environment poses a contamination risk.
Cardiovascular conditions, pregnancy, and low blood pressure all require medical guidance before regular sauna use. The cardiovascular demands of a full sauna session are significant.
The Estonian sauna as skincare
In Saaremaa, where HOIA is based, sauna culture is deeply embedded in daily and seasonal life. The combination of Baltic sea air, clean island environment, and regular sauna use is part of the reason the approach to skincare here tends to be functional rather than product-heavy. A proper sauna session, a cold rinse, clean air, and a simple natural moisturiser afterward can do more for skin than a complex multi-step routine applied to untreated skin.
The skin benefits of regular sauna use are real and supported by a reasonable body of research. They are not dramatic or immediate, but over time, improved circulation, cleaner pores, better barrier function, and reduced stress all add up. If you have access to a sauna, use it consistently. Your skin will notice.