The skincare industry has a clear financial interest in convincing everyone that moisturiser is non-negotiable. But the honest answer is that not everyone needs one, and for some people, the moisturiser they are using is making their skin more dependent on external hydration rather than less. The conversation is worth having properly.
What moisturisers actually do
Moisturisers work through three main mechanisms. Humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin attract water to the skin. Emollients like plant oils and fatty acids fill the gaps between skin cells, making the surface feel smoother. Occlusives like shea butter, beeswax, or petrolatum create a physical barrier on the skin surface that slows water evaporation.
Most modern moisturisers combine all three. The goal is to keep the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin, adequately hydrated so it functions properly as a barrier. A well-functioning skin barrier holds moisture in, keeps irritants out, and maintains the right environment for the skin’s own processes to work.
Where it gets complicated is that healthy skin already does this. The sebaceous glands produce sebum, which forms a protective layer. The skin produces its own natural moisturising factor (NMF), a mix of amino acids, urea, lactic acid, and other compounds that maintain hydration. If your skin is doing this effectively, adding a moisturiser may simply sit on top of skin that didn’t need help.
Who probably does need a moisturiser
Several skin conditions and circumstances create a genuine need for external moisturisation.
Dry skin type, clinically called xerosis, produces less sebum than normal and loses water more easily. Without external moisturisation, it tends to feel tight, look dull, and may develop flaking. People with eczema have a compromised skin barrier that cannot retain moisture effectively, and regular emollient use is one of the most evidence-backed management strategies there is.
Age is a factor. Sebum production declines with age, particularly after menopause. What maintained itself naturally at twenty often needs support at fifty.
Climate matters considerably. In cold, dry conditions like an Estonian winter, even skin that manages perfectly well in summer may need support in the colder months. Heating systems reduce indoor humidity dramatically, and the skin surface can lose water faster than it can replace it.
Certain skincare ingredients, particularly retinoids, AHAs, and benzoyl peroxide, increase transepidermal water loss and make a moisturiser more necessary as part of that routine, even if you would not otherwise use one.
Who might not need a moisturiser
This is the part that rarely gets discussed in the skincare industry.
Oily skin produces sebum in excess of what the skin needs. The sebaceous glands are already providing hydration and barrier function. Adding a rich moisturiser on top can clog pores, contribute to congestion, and increase shine. Some people with oily skin find their oil production actually increases when they moisturise regularly, as the skin receives signals that something from outside is doing the job its glands should be doing.
There is a concept sometimes described as “skin normalisation,” where removing a moisturiser from an oily routine initially causes a dry period as the skin adjusts, followed by the glands settling into producing the right amount of sebum again. The research on this is not extensive, but it is a real experience many people report.
If you have normal skin, live in a temperate and reasonably humid climate, do not use stripping actives, and your skin genuinely feels comfortable without moisturiser, you may not need one. Your skin may be doing its job perfectly.
The stripping routine problem
Many people feel they absolutely need a moisturiser because their routine creates the need for one. Foaming cleansers with strong surfactants, toners with alcohol, frequent exfoliation, and harsh stripping products remove the skin’s natural oils and barrier components. The moisturiser then becomes essential to compensate for what the rest of the routine stripped away.
This is not a made-up cycle. It is one of the reasons dermatologists who advocate for minimal routines suggest that a gentler cleanser and no other steps often result in better skin than a complex routine that disrupts and then tries to repair.
Before concluding that you cannot live without your moisturiser, it is worth asking whether a simpler, gentler routine might allow your skin to manage itself with less external help.
Choosing the right moisturiser if you do need one
Matching product weight to skin type is basic but frequently ignored. A thick cream designed for very dry skin will create problems on combination or oily skin. A light gel moisturiser may be insufficient for someone with severely dry skin in winter.
Look at the ingredient list. Glycerin and hyaluronic acid are excellent humectants. Ceramides support the barrier. Plant oils like jojoba, rosehip, or squalane are effective emollients with good skin compatibility. For very dry skin, richer butters and heavier occlusive ingredients are appropriate.
The timing and environment matter too. In humid climates, a light humectant-based moisturiser works well. In dry climates or cold weather, something with a proper occlusive layer on top holds hydration in more effectively.
The practical answer
Do you need a moisturiser? It depends on your skin type, climate, routine, and age. Dry skin, eczema, mature skin, active ingredient users, and anyone in harsh weather conditions: yes, a moisturiser is doing useful work. Oily skin in a temperate climate with a gentle routine: you might find you do not need one, or only need a very light layer in specific circumstances.
The best test is simple. Strip your routine back to just a gentle cleanser for two or three weeks. Observe how your skin behaves without external moisturisation. If it feels comfortable, looks good, and behaves well, you may have been moisturising out of habit rather than need. If it feels tight, dry, or reactive, that is the answer you need.
Moisturiser is not a skincare fundamental for every skin type. It is a tool, and like any tool, it works best when it is the right one for the job at hand.