Centella asiatica has been used in traditional medicine across India, Sri Lanka, and Southeast Asia for centuries. It’s one of those ingredients that crossed over from ancient remedy to modern cosmetic formulation without much resistance, mostly because the research actually holds up. That makes it relatively unusual in the skincare ingredient world.
If you’ve seen “cica” on product labels, that’s the same plant. “Cica” became popular as a shorthand in Korean beauty, and the trend has since spread everywhere. Here’s what the evidence says it actually does.
The active compounds in centella asiatica
Most of the clinical research on centella asiatica focuses on its triterpene compounds, primarily asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid. These are the molecules believed to be responsible for the plant’s effects on skin healing and collagen production.
Different product formulations use different parts of the plant and different extraction methods, which affects potency. A product using centella asiatica extract (whole plant) may contain different concentrations of active compounds than one using purified madecassoside or asiaticoside specifically. This matters when interpreting research, since most studies use specific compound concentrations rather than the percentage of whole plant extract you’ll find on a label.
What the research shows for wound healing
The wound healing evidence for centella asiatica is the most robust. Multiple studies, including randomised controlled trials, have found that centella asiatica extracts accelerate wound healing, reduce scar formation, and improve the appearance of existing scars.
A 2013 study published in the Journal of Wound Care found that topical centella asiatica significantly improved wound healing parameters compared to placebo. The mechanism involves stimulating collagen synthesis in fibroblasts (the cells responsible for building the skin’s structural proteins) and promoting angiogenesis, the formation of new blood vessels needed for tissue repair.
For post-surgical scars, stretch marks, and hypertrophic scars, centella asiatica is one of the better-supported topical options available. It’s been included in clinical recommendations for scar management in some dermatological guidelines.
Barrier repair and sensitivity reduction
Centella asiatica has become particularly popular in formulations for sensitive, reactive, or compromised skin. The evidence here is also reasonable, though less extensive than the wound healing research.
Studies suggest centella asiatica extracts reduce inflammation and support the skin barrier by promoting ceramide synthesis and reducing transepidermal water loss. One 2020 study found that a madecassoside-containing cream significantly reduced sensitivity scores and improved barrier function in subjects with sensitive skin after four weeks of use.
This is why “cica” products gained such a following among people with rosacea, eczema, or barrier-damaged skin from over-exfoliation. The anti-inflammatory and barrier-supporting effects appear to be real, not just marketing.
Collagen and anti-aging effects
Several studies have looked at centella asiatica’s role in collagen synthesis more broadly, beyond wound healing. The research suggests the triterpene compounds stimulate collagen type I production in dermal fibroblasts, which is the main structural protein that keeps skin firm.
A randomised, double-blind clinical trial published in the Journal of Medicinal Food found that women who took a centella asiatica extract supplement for six months showed improvements in skin elasticity and hydration. Topical application studies have also shown improvements in fine lines in some participants, though the anti-aging evidence is less consistent than the wound healing data.
The realistic conclusion is that centella asiatica has genuine anti-aging potential through collagen stimulation, but it’s not a replacement for retinoids or peptides in that department. It’s more accurate to describe it as a supporting player in an anti-aging routine than a lead ingredient.
How to use centella asiatica in your routine
Centella asiatica is versatile in terms of routine placement. It’s compatible with most other ingredients and can be used morning and evening. It doesn’t cause photosensitivity, so it’s safe for daytime use, unlike some actives.
For barrier repair and sensitive skin, look for products where madecassoside or asiaticoside appears early in the ingredient list, indicating a meaningful concentration. Products that list “centella asiatica extract” lower in the list may contain concentrations too small to produce clinically relevant effects.
People using centella asiatica for scar management tend to get better results with consistent twice-daily application over at least two to three months. Wound healing improvements are visible earlier, often within a few weeks.
It layers well under moisturisers and doesn’t interact negatively with most actives. If you’re using retinol and finding it too irritating, adding a centella-heavy product to your routine can help reduce the irritation while the skin adapts.
What to be realistic about
Centella asiatica is not going to erase deep wrinkles, clear active acne, or fade pigmentation on its own. It’s primarily a skin-soothing, healing, and barrier-supporting ingredient with genuine but specific effects.
The widespread “cica” branding has diluted the term to the point where many “cica” products contain minimal amounts of the actual plant. Look at the ingredient list rather than the marketing copy. The concentration and form of centella asiatica in a product matters much more than whether “cica” appears on the front of the packaging.
For sensitive or healing skin, it’s one of the most reliably well-tolerated and research-backed ingredients available. That’s a meaningful distinction in a market full of overhyped claims.