The toner step is one of the most debated in skincare. Some people swear by it. Others have dropped it entirely without any change in their skin. Both experiences are valid, and the reason is that “toner” covers a wide category of products with very different purposes and formulations. Whether you need one depends entirely on what a specific toner actually contains.
Where toners came from and why the category is confusing
The original purpose of toner in skincare routines from the mid-20th century was to remove residual soap from skin after cleansing. Soap-based cleansers left an alkaline residue (pH 8-10) that needed to be neutralised. Alcohol-based toners were used to strip this residue and “tone” pores. The step made sense in that context.
Modern cleansers are mostly not soap-based. Most have a pH reasonably close to skin’s natural range (4.5-6) and do not require a neutralising step. The historical justification for toner largely disappeared with the shift to synthetic surfactant-based cleansers. Many traditional toners (astringent, high-alcohol formulas) were actively harmful to the skin barrier: dehydrating, pH-disrupting, and stripping.
The new generation of toners: what they actually do
Modern toners have split into several distinct product types that serve very different functions. Understanding which type you are looking at is the key to evaluating whether it is worth using.
Hydrating toners (sometimes called “first essences” or “watery toners”) are water-based formulas with humectants like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol. Applied after cleansing on damp skin, they add a hydration layer before serums and moisturisers. For dry skin types or anyone living in a dry climate, this step can meaningfully improve the absorption and effectiveness of subsequent products. These toners are genuinely useful and harmless for most skin types.
Exfoliating toners contain AHAs (glycolic, lactic, mandelic acid), BHAs (salicylic acid), or PHAs (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid) in relatively low concentrations. They provide regular gentle chemical exfoliation without requiring a dedicated treatment product. For oily, acne-prone, or congested skin, a salicylic acid toner used daily or several times weekly can replace a weekly exfoliant step. These are useful products for the right skin types.
Botanical hydrosols and floral waters are steam distillation by-products of essential oil production. Rose water, lavender water, chamomile water, and similar products contain small amounts of volatile aromatic compounds and minerals from the plant material. They have mild toning, soothing, and light hydrating properties. Organic Rose Water applied as a toner or face mist provides a genuine anti-inflammatory and mildly hydrating effect from the rose compounds, making it a useful step for sensitive and normal skin types.
When toner is not necessary
If your cleanser is already well-formulated (gentle, appropriately pH-balanced, no residue), your moisturiser provides sufficient hydration, and you are not dealing with specific concerns like oiliness or congestion, a toner adds little. Removing this step from your routine will not harm your skin and may reduce the total product load on it.
Minimalist routines, by design, skip steps that do not address a specific need. Cleanser, active serum, moisturiser, SPF is a completely functional routine for most people that does not require a toner in the middle.
How to use toner if you choose to
Apply immediately after cleansing, while skin is still slightly damp. This improves absorption of humectant toners and maximises the residency time of any active ingredients in exfoliating toners. For hydrating toners, patting directly with clean hands is gentler and wastes less product than applying with cotton pads.
Exfoliating toners should not be used on the same day as other chemical exfoliation steps. If you use an AHA or BHA toner in the morning, do not also use an exfoliating serum in the evening. The cumulative exfoliation will exceed what most skin barriers can handle without irritation.
Botanical waters are generally gentle enough for twice-daily use and can be misted throughout the day for refreshing and light hydration. They are particularly well-suited to warm weather, post-exercise, or layered over SPF for a freshness top-up without disturbing underlying products.
What to avoid in toners
Alcohol (listed as alcohol, ethanol, or SD alcohol denat. near the top of the ingredient list) as a primary ingredient. High-alcohol toners strip skin lipids, disrupt the microbiome, and increase transepidermal water loss. They remain on shelves because some people like the tight, clean feeling they create immediately after application, but that feeling is barrier disruption, not a benefit.
Menthol and mint at high concentrations produce a cooling sensation but can be irritating for sensitive skin and do not provide meaningful skincare benefits.
Fragrance-heavy formulas in toners applied by hand to the full face and neck deliver fragrant compounds to a wide surface area at significant frequency, making them a higher sensitisation risk than fragranced products used less frequently or on smaller areas.
The honest answer to “is toner necessary” is: it depends on the toner and your skin. A hydrating toner with glycerin and hyaluronic acid is a nice addition to a dry skin routine. An exfoliating toner addresses oiliness and congestion effectively. A botanical hydrosol provides gentle skin conditioning. A high-alcohol astringent does more harm than good for almost everyone.