Face oils are one of those ingredients that are simultaneously recommended and misused. Used correctly, they add genuine benefit: nourishment, barrier support, and a natural glow that no synthetic product quite replicates. Used incorrectly, they block the absorption of everything else in your routine and leave your skin feeling greasy without actually being more hydrated.
The key is understanding where oils sit in the skin physiology and what happens when you layer them with other products.
Why the order of application matters with oils
The conventional skincare layering rule, thinnest to thickest, exists because thicker products can form a partial barrier that reduces the absorption of lighter products applied afterwards. Oils are lipophilic (attracted to other lipids) and have varying degrees of occlusive effect depending on their molecular size and fatty acid composition.
If you apply a face oil before a water-based serum, the oil creates a barrier that the serum, which is water-based, cannot easily pass through. The serum sits on top of the oil rather than reaching the skin. You get the oil effect but miss the serum’s active ingredients entirely.
This doesn’t mean oils should always come last in a routine. It means you need to understand what each product in your routine is doing and sequence accordingly.
The basic layering sequence for face oils
The standard approach that works for most people: cleanser, toner or essence if used, water-based serum with actives, moisturiser, then face oil. The oil goes on top as the final step, creating a light occlusive seal over everything else.
In this sequence, the oil works in two ways. First, it slows transepidermal water loss by creating a partial barrier on the skin surface, which helps all the hydrating ingredients underneath maintain their effect longer. Second, it supplements the skin’s lipid layer, particularly important in winter or for dry skin that struggles to retain moisture naturally.
An alternative approach that works well for dry skin: cleanser, apply your serum and let it absorb, then mix a drop of oil into your moisturiser before applying. This creates an oil-enriched emollient layer rather than two separate steps, which works better for some textures and saves time.
When to use oil before moisturiser
Some oils are light enough that applying them before a rich moisturiser makes sense. Very dry oils with a thin consistency, such as rosehip, hemp seed, or certain squalane products, can go before a heavier cream because they absorb quickly and don’t create a significant barrier. The richer cream on top then provides additional occlusion.
If you have dry, tight skin and your moisturiser alone isn’t doing enough, try applying a dry oil first and following with your cream. The combination of oil plus cream provides a denser moisture seal than either alone.
For oily or combination skin, the order also matters differently. A very lightweight, non-comedogenic oil can go before a light moisturiser to add lipids without heaviness. In summer, some people with combination skin skip the moisturiser and use just the oil, choosing a dry, fast-absorbing oil that doesn’t feel heavy.
Choosing the right oil for layering
Not all facial oils behave the same. The fatty acid composition determines how the oil feels, how fast it absorbs, and how comedogenic it’s likely to be.
Oils high in linoleic acid (omega-6), such as rosehip, hemp seed, grape seed, and sea buckthorn seed oil, are generally lighter and absorb relatively quickly. They’re better tolerated by acne-prone skin and tend to be less comedogenic. The small molecular size of linoleic acid means these oils penetrate more readily rather than sitting on the surface.
Oils high in oleic acid (omega-9), such as argan, olive, sweet almond, and avocado oil, are generally heavier and more occlusive. They’re excellent for very dry skin and for the sealing role in the routine, but can feel greasy on oily or combination skin. They work better as the final layer rather than early in a routine.
Squalane is a special case: it mimics the skin’s own sebum and is generally well-tolerated by all skin types. It’s lightweight enough to layer under moisturiser or used on its own as a finish.
How many drops to use
This is where most people go wrong. Two to three drops of facial oil is enough for the entire face. More than this creates the greasy film that gives oils a bad reputation.
Warm the drops between your palms before pressing gently onto the skin rather than rubbing. Pressing allows the oil to transfer evenly without disturbing underlying layers or pulling the skin.
If you’re adding oil to a moisturiser, one to two drops per pump of moisturiser is the right ratio. More than this changes the texture of the moisturiser significantly and may reduce its own performance.
Morning versus evening use
Oils work well in both morning and evening routines, but with some differences. In the morning, a lightweight oil applied before SPF is fine for most formulations. However, some richer oils can interact with certain chemical UV filters, potentially reducing their effectiveness. If you notice your SPF not spreading well or feeling strange over a face oil, switch the oil to evening only.
Evening routines benefit from richer oils because there’s no UV filter compatibility to worry about, and the occlusive effect while you sleep enhances overnight repair. Oils high in oleic acid, particularly a quality organic argan oil, are especially suited to this purpose, sealing in moisture and active ingredients from serums while the skin goes through its natural overnight repair cycle.
Rosehip seed oil is well suited to evening use for hyperpigmentation or anti-aging concerns because the vitamin A precursors it contains (trans-retinoic acid in small amounts) work in similar, though much gentler, ways to retinoids. Pairing it with a retinol or retinal product is generally fine; they work synergistically rather than conflicting.
Face oils are worth using. The technique just requires a bit more deliberateness than most other skincare products.